Tømrerarbejde på kviste

Isætning af kvistvinduer på Fyn: Her bruger vi meget at tække direkte på vinduet, i ganske få tilfælde sættes der en kvistkarm op, hvori man så monterer vinduet. Det er i så fald nemmere at udskifte på et senere tidspunkt, træarbejdet er egentlig det samme.​

Ved tækning direkte på vinduet, skal der være monteret et spejl eller en kant på vinduets yderside – den der vender mod stråtaget. Kanten skal være så bred, at der bliver et pænt stykke fra overkanten til lægterne, så taget kan presses ned mod lægterne og sidde i spænd.​

Bredden på spejlkanter varierer meget fra en tækkemand til en anden. Mit synspunkt er, at spejlet skal være så smalt som muligt, for at vinduet ikke kommer til at se for lille ud i forhold til omgangen af stråtaget.

Lidt forklaring om montering af kvistvinduet: Vi starter med at sætte 2 lægteben lodret op fra gulvet i den højde kvisten skal sidde. Vi har altid ca. 10-12 cm vinkelret afstand mellem lægter og kvistens bagkant, det giver plads til, at toppen af tækkerørene kan føres ind under kvisten for senere at blive klippet af. For at få den omtalte afstand, føres lægtebenene fremefter, indtil afstanden opnås. Det er bedst, hvis det kan passe på kanten af lægten, så kan der skrues ind i denne samtidig med, at der skrues i spæret, hvis det passer i bredden mellem spær. Ellers kan der sættes klodser imellem spær og lægtebenene. Kvisten kan nu skrues direkte ned igennem det forlængede understykke på kvisten og ned i lægtebenene.

Husk at skrue det første vandbrædt på inden kvisten sættes fast på lægtebenene.

Kvisten kan derefter sættes i lod ved fastgørelse af spærene – vi bruger altid 50×100 m/m. Ved buede kviste sættes et spær på midten af vinduet og et på hver side ca. halvt nede på buen, de 2 sidespær går kun 2/3 del op på det midterste spær, som slutter af på den fjerde øverste lægte. Det passer så med, at der kan rygges, uden at der bliver en bule på rygningen. Når spærene er sat på lægges der en lægte uden på alle taglægter. Den starter fra lægten ved vinduesunderstykket og går op til en linje vandret ind fra overkanten af kvisten, og ligger vinkelret på taglægterne. Det gør, at der bliver mere plads til isolering og inderbeklædning af kvisten. I den vandrette linje saves lægten over og drejes ind mod midterspæret, og kvisten er nu klar til, at der kan lægtes.

På de mere firkantede kviste sættes et spær i hver side, som spidses ind ca. 25 cm fra hver side. Det gør, at kvisten ikke kommer til at se bredere ud for oven efter den er tækket. Ellers foregår alt på samme måde som ved buede kviste.​

Ved lægtningen startes der med at måle 25 cm op fra spejlets overside – her skal den første lægte sidde. Man finder nu den lægte, der vinkelret passer bedst med det punkt, der er på midterspæret 25 cm oppe: Derefter lægtes der fortsat vinkelret på tagfladens lægter, og ud for disse. Det er så nemmere at ramme lægterne med skruerne, når der skal tækkes. Dette gøres hele vejen til tops.

Når jeg synes, at der skal lægtes vinkelret på taglægterne, skyldes det, at når vi tækker kvisten, kan vi tække lidt op ad gangen, og det betyder, at vi får taget med ved siderne, så vi har noget at stå på for at nå ind over kvisten.

Afslutningen fra taget og mod kvisten foregår med vandbrædder mage til det, der er skruet på kvisten inden starten.

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